JRAS June meeting

Hi Gang,

We will be holding our June 2014 James River Aquarium Society Monthly Meeting this Wednesday, June 25th at 7:30 PM at Petco, 13329 Rittenhouse Drive, Midlothian, VA 23112, Phone: (804) 744-468seven. Any questions contact Dennis Bragg, Cell/Text: (804) 690-215two. Directions / Map are below. NOTE: THIS IS NOT OUR REGULAR MONTHLY MEETING SITE AT DGIF!

About our program this Wednesday evening: Joe Lirot and Richard Glenn of Petco’s “Top 100 Saltwater Stores in the US” will present:

"Nano Reef Tanks, Is it a waste of time? Everyone says it's hard! Is it?”



About our Wednesday program speaker: Richard Glenn
Richard Glenn is an aquatic guru that owns a company called Fishy Business that had an active aquatic retail store from 1984-1997, but has now evolved into a pond set up and maintenance services company for numerous clients around the city. Richard has also worked at Azalea Aquarium and Pet dimension supply, a wholesale aquatic supply company. Richard has 30 years hard-won experience in the aquatic industry both fresh and salt and is now also acting as an inventory manager for Petco.

About our Wednesday program speaker: Joe Lirot
Joe Lirot has been involved in strictly saltwater aquariums and reef systems for the last six years, has been with Petco for five years, and is now the assistant store manager for Petco.

Joe owns two businesses that are both active within a two state area. While the businesses Joe owns do not pertain to saltwater, it made him aware of the busy lives that all of us have. Even travelling extensively he didn't want to give up on his passion for saltwater aquaria. Out of necessity, due to extensive travel and being extremely busy, Joe had to created different ways to make life easier with his tanks. This led Joe to being somewhat of an expert in the Nano-reef field out of necessity.

Richard Glen and Joe Lirot have worked hand-in-hand building and educating Petco customers in the saltwater field and have built their store up to be in the top 5% of saltwater sales in the entire US for Petco. They now are in the top 100 spot for all 2000 Petco’s nationwide! Both Joe, Richard, and Petco look forward to sharing their wisdom on how to efficiently setup, choose species, and maintain very small reef aquaria- a very hot topic nationwide!

Auction: As usual, we will be holding our end of meeting auction of livestock, plants, hard goods, etc. This time, among other entry items, we will have large amounts of Myriophyllum elatinoides, Cabomba caroliniana, and several other very pretty aquarium plants, including Cryptocoryne wendtii v. 'bronze, PLUS a 4" Marble Motoro Freshwater Stingray pup born 6/6/14 with a reserve price of $20, and upwards of 20+ Girardinus metallicus - The “Metallic Livebearer” or “Cuban livebearer”.


. Motoro Stingray Pup Metallic/Cuban Livebearer

Note:

1) Petco has a slight shortage of chairs for this meeting and we are asking those with fold-out chairs to bring one along just in case.
2) This month’s membership meeting is NOT BEING HELD AT OUR USUAL MEETING LOCATION! Don’t go to DGIF on Main Street near downtown or you will miss all the fun!

Hope to see you all at Petco, 13329 Rittenhouse Drive, Midlothian, VA 23112 at 7:30 PM this Wednesday afternoon for a truly great program on how to set up and care for a Nano saltwater reef!

Sincerely,

Dennis Bragg
JRAS President
Cell/Text: 804-690-215two
roovle@gmail.com

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Directions

Swift Creek Petco, located at13329 Rittenhouse Drive, Midlothian, VA 23112, Store Phone: (804) 744-4687. Just copy either of the two below URLs and paste them into your Chrome or Google browser and it will show you a map of the site and allow you to get directions from your starting point.
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Petco+Animal+Supplies+-+Midlothian/@37.4142,-77.6407,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0x4b4fff0e14e52a8a

www.petco.com/content/locator/Details.aspx?storeId=2741&Nav=2" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://source-www.petco.com/content/locator/Details.aspx?storeId=2741&Nav=2

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Research

Article: How to Start and Maintain a Nano Reef

November, 2007, Tropical Fish Hobbyist, Author: Nicholas Violand, from: http://www.tfhmagazine.com/details/articles/how-to-start-and-maintain-a-nano-reef.htm


Photographer: Nicholas Violand

TFH's inquiring editorial intern equips, sets up, and stocks a nano reef tank, gaining valuable insight into the current nano craze and learning a few key lessons along the way.

If you’ve been successful with creating and maintaining a nano reef, you ought to be commended. And if you’ve contemplated a nano and still haven’t been completely scared off by naysayers, allow me to throw in my two cents. You may find there are many things you haven’t thought of yet. These micro-marvels of the marine hobby, which attained a cult following but are becoming more mainstream, bring to the table a whole new array of considerations because of their size. Although the term is conventionally used to refer to smaller than 40 gallons, “nano” here refers to systems smaller than 15.

And You Would Be…?
As a student of the sciences at Rutgers University, I became particularly interested in marine biology and fishkeeping, and I also served as an editorial intern for TFH this past summer (which was an awesome experience by the way, if any of you college-age readers out there are interested for next year!). After my first saltwater tank a few years ago, I was disappointed that I couldn’t afford sufficient lighting and filtration to create a full reef.

One thing about many of the nano naysayers is that very few have ever even tried to keep a nano. Most insist they’re too difficult to attempt and only recommend tanks at least 40 to 55 gallons. Well, I’ve defied convention, joined the revolution, and started my own nano reef. And I didn’t fail in keeping things afloat—at least not completely.

All or Nothing
Some of the perceived benefits and pitfalls of nano reefs are easily outlined. Beginners often think a small reef is possible at a small price, and if the tank is small, it must be low maintenance, right? If you’re new to nanos, you may believe these myths.

If you’re a pessimist, you’re thinking the water parameters are impossible to keep track of, and any fluctuations are uncontrollable. Well, both parties are right—and wrong. Follow me on the arduous journey I took to build and maintain my own nano, and you’ll see both sides of the battle.

Plenty of Choices
In choosing a nano reef, I would have the ability to house corals that I was previously unable to keep in my insufficient FOWLR tank. The desire to house zooxanthellae-dependent organisms was very strong for me, so I loved the idea of affordable all-in-one setups (herein referred to as AIOs) with strong lighting and efficient filtration systems built in.

After discovering the bustling online forums devoted to nanos, I had many of my initial questions answered, and a window for future guidance. I recommend any interested hobbyist begin by digging through such forum threads, and some good books, like the Nano Reef Handbook by C. R. Brightwell (T.F.H. Publications, 2006). With some research, I selected an AIO, which arrived at my doorstep quickly, along with a few accessories.

You have a few choices with nano setups, one being the tried-and-true standard seamed glass tank with external filtration, skimming, and lighting, or even a separate refugium. You can either build a system from individual parts or choose one of the many AIOs on the market. The various manufacturers of these seem to be in competition to see who can most effectively pack in the most features, so there are some good choices out there.

The model I chose has two 24-watt compact fluorescent actinic and daylight lamps over 9 gallons (over 5 watts per gallon, more than minimal for corals), and separate filter chambers built into the tank. The deciding factors in making my choice were the cleverly cornered protein skimmer and refugium basket with a built-in light for macroalgae. However, I’ve yet to see a small AIO that perfectly integrates every necessity of a successful nano reef.

That’s a Real Little Skimmer
Many add-ons can be incorporated into a mini-reef, but are considered overkill for nanos. While this applies to add-ons like wavemakers, there are components designed in nano sizes that you don’t want to be without—the best example being the various tiny protein skimmers now flooding the market.

Having biological, chemical, and/or mechanical filtration is also a must, especially for the biological/natural kind, which works wonders in a small setup. I utilized macroalgae in the sparsely lit refugium (illuminated at night to prevent pH swings) for nitrate removal, along with some live rock and sand. In a small volume, you must use as many methods as possible to remove undesired elements, so plan for biological, chemical, and mechanical filtration if possible. An external filter for a slightly larger setup is not a bad idea either—just don’t create excessive water movement.

Among many nano components, price doesn’t necessarily correspond with size, and as with most things, you get what you pay for. A quality nano component won’t be cheap, so don’t think nano size should translate to nano price. Skimmers, filters, and lights can be had rather affordably, but their abilities will be limited in comparison to the more costly ones of similar size.

Sure, Go Overboard, Just Don’t Drown
Of course there are must-haves for your nano reef: heaters, thermometers, GFI powerstrips, and test kits; and you can debatably go without a protein skimmer (something I wouldn’t try on a well-stocked system). But if you don’t mind spending the extra cash, you can throw in things like powerheads, chillers, auto top-offs, monitors, wavemakers, and the like. Add whatever you feel is necessary, just don’t overcrowd your system (and try not to constantly trip your circuit breaker, either). At first, you can save a lot of money by leaving things out, but you’ll find yourself slowly spending what you saved.

You can purchase reverse-osmosis (RO) water from your LFS or another source, but the costs eventually add up, and you’ll be wishing you made the investment in an RO unit, no matter how small your setup. The most convenient (not least expensive) solution for me was an RO system for daily top-up water, and pre-mixed saltwater from my LFS for 2½-gallon weekly water changes, merely a time saver.

Setting Up
So you’ve got your nano tank and components, you’ll now need to consider placement. Once filled, you must consider the location of the tank to be permanent—you wouldn’t want to disturb your micro-environment once it’s settled. Also, no matter the size, moving even a partially filled tank runs the risk of stressing the seams, leading to a potential flood, albeit a minute one.

Place your reef in a place with significant traffic, where it can be observed often, but not disturbed by too-frequent fluctuations in ambient temperature. Heat can become a big problem for your nano, so pick a place that won’t get too hot. My parents inadvertently got the right idea when they made me house my first salt tank in the basement (so as not to ruin my mother’s floors). It wasn’t exposed to the heat of the first floor, so it was safe from fluctuations. Temperatures within a small tank can rise or plummet with the ambient temperature, so a cool basement is not a bad idea, just use a good heater as well, and check the tank daily.

A leak test is in order next. For even the smallest leak you’d have to remove all of the sealant, and completely redo it. With a new aquarium, return it to the dealer for a replacement if you detect any problems.

Once you know your tank holds water, place the components in their respective locations. Don’t become a gadget-a-holic, as I did. Running too many pumps shouldn’t add a lot of heat, but you may accidentally draw too much water from your filter chamber (in the case of an AIO). I implemented a powerhead and a UV sterilizer in my 9-gallon nano, but not without placement considerations.

A good rule of thumb is one pound of live rock per gallon, with live-sand substrate a half-inch thick. Clean up your live rock first (I prefer a quick freshwater dip), then aquascape against the bottom of the dry aquarium.

Pour in water and live sand, enough to hold the aquascaping in place, then cover the entire area with a clean plastic bag, the one the live rock came in, for instance. That way, when you pour in pre-mixed, temperature- and pH-adjusted saltwater, you won’t move the micro-rockwork. Remember, it’s not called live rock for nothing; keep it moist this entire time and fill the tank as quickly as possible, so you don’t get too much die-off, which would throw off your water chemistry.

Do I Really Need To Wait?
While debate wages over whether to seed tanks with sand and rock from established setups, both sides present reasonable arguments, applicable to mini and nano reefs. Using old live rock and sand, you’re seeding your new nano with microfauna you’ll otherwise be waiting to establish. Since its small, incorporating them should be a quick process; however, be careful not to take too much sand or rock from a pre-existing system. I’ve been advised this can cause instability in the system from which it’s removed, both chemically and structurally. A happy medium for me was taking a small quantity of rock and sand from my two-year-old FOWLR, just not enough to effect any drastic changes. Season your new filter by placing media in an established setup, then moving it to your new one after a while.
No pre-existing setup? It’s imperative you grasp the concepts behind the nitrogen cycle. Don’t jump the gun, stocking too early, before your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels have had a chance to stabilize and approach zero.

The Order of Your Additions
In a reef tank, inverts come first. Choose other livestock that are compatible with your inverts, and will not eat, kill, or otherwise annoy them. It’s best, of course, to wait until the tank is fully cycled, and your water conditions have stabilized. I did two huge water changes before I added any volatile organisms. If you see algae blooms building up, add a cleaning crew to test things out and neaten up.

Depending on the size of the tank, it may be best to completely leave fish out, but you’ll find more invert doors have opened for you. If any inverts you desire can sting others, put these in first so they settle in and stay in one place. Some inverts are much more sensitive than others, and are much easier to lose if the tank becomes unstable. If you prefer such organisms, wait until you have a strong handle on your water parameters. “How easy is that to kill?” has become my favorite question at my LFS.

Variety is the Spice of Life, Not Your Nano
Full-size mini reefs definitely have nanos beat with respect to the variety of organisms you can house only in larger capacities. Some of us may look longingly at the exotic specimens at our LFS, but most of them are clearly designated for larger setups. Even the seemingly small juveniles, which grow rapidly, will struggle in tiny quarters.

Unfortunately, fish like anthias, butterflyfish, and surgeonfish get too large, and others like lionfishes, angels, and eels are out of the question, as they are not reef safe.

Many invertebrates are not reef safe either, nor will they be able to survive in a nano. Some shrimps and crabs fall into this category, and lobsters require heavy feeding, which can destroy a small system. Of course, anemones are not recommended for nanos, and most LPS corals are more difficult to place and sustain than their SPS cousins. Much to my dismay, though small tridacnid clams could be kept in nanos with pristine water conditions, they grow far too large to be kept long term.

Compatible Fish Species for Your Nano
While many creatures are strongly advised against, certain ones can thrive. Among these are fairy wrasses like Cirrhilabrus lubbocki and C. rubripinnis; grammas Gramma loreto and G.melacara (less territorial than dottybacks); cardinals Pterapogon kauderni and Sphaeramia nematoptera; Amblyeleotris randalli, A. guttata, and A. wheeleri gobies; Nemateleotris magnifica and N. decora dartfishes; and some damselfishes (which tend to be aggressive) housed individually like Chrysiptera cyanea, C. parasema, and Dascyllus aruanus. Anemonefishes like Amphiprion ocellaris and A. percula can do surprisingly well, as they typically inhabit only a small space in the wild, so they can contently conform to small spaces in captivity. Pygmy angels may be considered, but their reef-safe status and maximum length should be researched first. And please do not keep mandarinfishes like Synchiropus picturatus, unless you’ve got an established refugium from which to offer a constant supply of tiny invertebrates for them to eat.

Invert Species Suitable to a Nano
The crowning achievement of my nano project was my first coral, which I admittedly purchased on impulse. With the rest, I did a little reading to find out what could adapt best to my small tank. Zoanthids were given high praise, as they’re among the hardier soft corals, coming in many different varieties. Nepthea, Xenia, and Cladiella may also do well, but should only be placed in nanos that are stable and well established. You’ll find it rather easy and affordable to obtain tiny frags from fellow hobbyists or groups like GARF, the Geothermal Aquaculture Research Foundation, rather than purchasing fully grown colonies for more money.

Peppermints were among the shrimps that remain at a manageable size and won’t cause havoc. Small hermits and a snail are definite requirements as well, but don’t use so many that there won’t be enough algae for them all to eat.

Important Habits
As with any reef setup, certain things must be done on a regular basis. Spend time every day checking to be certain all inhabitants are alive and well, feeding them sparingly. Remember that some invertebrates should be fed less frequently than most fishes, which will help to keep the dissolved nutrient levels down, keeping microalgae and cyanobacteria in check.

Invest in a decent test kit, so you can at least monitor ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, and pH. Calcium and phosphate tests are highly recommended as well, and, as always, check your specific gravity/salinity and temperature regularly. Most tests can be done weekly, but salinity and temperature should be checked daily, especially because specific gravity fluctuations caused by salt creep and water evaporation can rapidly affect your nano. This is where a costly but more accurate refractometer will make life easier.

New formulations of nano supplements are on the market, the one I used had directions for drop-wise additions on a daily basis. This is really the best way to prevent overdosing the system. You can also calculate how much water typically evaporates from your system on a daily basis, and from this, determine the quantity of supplements you can dose through your top-up water, added either manually every day, or by the use of an auto top-off.

Be sure to check your components to make sure they are functioning properly, clean your skimmer cup and the aquarium glass, and do water changes either weekly or bi-weekly. If you prefer to do them bi-weekly, do them in a larger volume percentage. It’s often best to do smaller ones on a weekly basis.

Troubleshooting
What would any project be without some unexpected problems? A couple of the ones I ran into sought to bring down the entire tank. Heat was a major issue for my AIO—it seems the manufacturers know you will need to invest in a chiller, but installing the hoses isn’t necessarily intuitive. The heat from built-in lights was far too much to combat.

Before investing in a tiny yet expensive chiller, I investigated many methods to cool down, first trying several cooling fans, which couldn’t bring the temperature close to ambient while my lights were in action. Next, an air pump situated in a cooler filled with ice packs. Not only would I not recommend this because of the danger of electrical shock, but cold air pumping through the system did absolutely nothing. And the bubbles caused a ridiculous amount of salt creep.

Perhaps the manufacturers can effect easier installation of chillers, as I consider them an absolute necessity in a reef tank this small. Chiller models that work off of electricity alone (no refrigerant) may also work, but the ones I looked at require that a hole be drilled into the wall of the tank (or an external filter). A preinstalled thermo-electric chiller might do wonders for the blood pressure of many nano hobbyists.

While testing solutions for my heat concern took immediate priority, hair algae sprouted all over my nano, literally overnight! When the tank only contained live rock and sand, it was very easy to do a 60-percent water change, clean the rock, and throw in some phosphate remover. By completely eliminating the photoperiod for several days, I kissed that hair algae goodbye. This would not have been easy had my tank already housed corals.

Where Nanos Are Headed
Historically, as was the case in the marine hobby with mini reefs, technology adapted to the practicality of sustaining reef organisms for long periods of time, and this is already becoming a reality with nano reefs. The all-in-one system is prime evidence for this notion, and I plan on keeping my nano reef for as long as I can plausibly sustain it. With a little research, and some knowledgeable experience, the art of keeping a nano reef will become much more widespread. While a nano is definitely not the best idea for beginning marine enthusiasts, they have the potential to become a more acceptable alternative to full-size mini reef tanks. The future of the marine hobby has been fast approaching, and the arrival of so many unconventional hobbyists speaks for the popularity and success of the nano-reef-keeping hobby.

Acknowledgements
I would like to extend my thanks to Jeff Kurtz, James Fatherree, David Boruchowitz, Stan at Tropiquarium, and the members of the forum at reefcentral.com for their helpful advice and opinions, as well as their restraint from complete negativity with this project. It would not have been a success without all your help.

Article: Maintaining a Nano Reef

Dec 05 2002, Christopher Marks, Nano-Reef.com, Beginners Articles, from: http://www.nano-reef.com/articles/_/beginners/maintaining-a-nano-reef-r6

Maintaining your nano reef is a very important task, and it can be quite simple. Usually you can do all of your maintenance in 15 minutes or less. The most important part of maintaining your nano reef is doing partial water changes. Water changes must be done religiously! You can do your partial water changes every week to every other week, depending on the bio load in your tank. If you decide to do them weekly, change out 10% of the tanks volume with freshly mixed saltwater. If you do them bi-weekly, then you will need to do a 15-20% water change. To save time, you will want to keep saltwater already mixed in a 20 gallon container, so when the time comes to do a water change, you will always have mixed water on hand. Also, make sure that the water is the same temperature and salinity as the water already in the aquarium.

Next to water changes, evaporation top off is also very important. You may have to do this daily depending on the size and shape of your aquarium. Evaporation top off is simply adding freshwater to your aquarium to make up for the water that evaporates throughout the day. Remember to never use saltwater to top off evaporation, because the salt is left behind during evaporation and your specific gravity will rise.

You will also want to continuously wipe off your nano reef with freshwater to keep it clean of salt creep. Salt creep comes from the salt left over from the evaporated water. You will notice it collecting on the top of you tank and on the lights. Be sure to never use a chemical cleaner! If any of it were to get into the aquarium, it could kill everything.

If you have algae growing on the sides of your nano reef, you will need to clean that off as well. If you have a glass aquarium, you can use a straight edge razor and scrape it clean, or if you have an acrylic aquarium, you can use an appropriate acrylic-safe scraper. If you use the razor, be sure to rinse it off after you use it, because the saltwater will corrode the metal.


Article: Nano Reef Tank Tips

Follow these reefkeeping tips to increase your likelihood of long-term nano reef aquarium success.
By Scott W. Michael, Aquarium Fish Magazine, from: http://www.fishchannel.com/saltwater-aquariums/reefkeeping/nano-reefs-pt2.aspx

Nano reef aquariums have many appealing characteristics, and last time we went over some nano-reef basics. At this time, when many people are careful about how they spend their money, nanos are likely to be more widely considered. They are less expensive to acquire, set up and stock, require less energy to maintain and can fit into a more confined space. That said, there are also some inherent risks or potential pitfalls in keeping a smaller aquarium. Here are some things to consider that will increase your likelihood of long-term success.
Click image to enlarge

Nano reef aquariums are less expensive to acquire, set up and stock, require less energy to maintain and can fit into a more confined space.
Regular Maintenance
If you really think about it, much of our lives involve some type of maintenance (I have found this to be especially true since I bought a home and now deal with an older house, a lawn and a landscape). If you buy a saltwater aquarium, be prepared for more maintenance activities - and if you get a nano reef, be ready to do them even more religiously. Because of their smaller water volume, nano-reef aquariums are less forgiving than their larger counterparts. So if you don't have the time or inclination to do these regular duties (or you don't want to pay someone to do them for you), you may want to reconsider acquiring a nano reef. For those who are up to the challenge, here are some things to consider.

Tasks that you will need to do daily include replacing water that has evaporated from your system with fresh reverse-osmosis (RO) water, feeding your animals, checking the condition of the aquarium inhabitants and equipment, and removing algae from the viewing panes (this may be done less frequently if microalgae growth is limited).

It is important to conduct regular water changes at least once a week. Water changes are the easiest way to deal with the build-up of bad things (e.g., dissolved organics) and the depletion of good things (e.g., trace elements). One of the great things about a nano reef is it is much easier to do significant water changes because of the aquarium's smaller volume (e.g., a 10-percent water change of a 10-gallon tank is only 1 gallon). Because we are talking about minimal water volumes, it is easy to have an equal volume of prepared saltwater on hand in case of an emergency.

I use a 30-gallon trash can as a "backup" receptacle complete with a heater - I hang the heater from a plastic rigid tube placed across the middle of the can so that it does not melt the plastic. Take a large (32- or 44-ounce) plastic drink cup and slowly pour the fresh seawater into your nano reef. When you do water changes, remove as much detritus as possible. Use some plastic rigid tubing attached to a flexible hose so that you can vacuum detritus out from between rockwork as you siphon out 10 to 20 percent of the tank's water (the amount removed will be a function of how heavily the aquarium is stocked).
Click image to enlarge

Small cardinalfishes such as these threadfin cardinals (Zoramia Leptacantha) make for a fascinating addition to a nano reef. Just make sure you don't overstock your small tank.

Also clean any mechanical filters where detritus has had a chance to accumulate at least once a week. Once again, while it is a good practice to do this regularly in any aquarium, it is even more important in an aquarium of smaller volume. Some people rinse mechanical filter media in a bucket with waste water from the aquarium in order to not destroy beneficial bacteria growing on the material. I prefer to rinse it under a high-pressure faucet to remove as much of the accumulated detritus as possible, even though it may destroy some of the beneficial microfauna.

To keep detritus accumulation in check, it is a good idea to instigate a "faux hurricane" at least once a month. Use a small powerhead to blast water jets around the live rock in order to dislodge and remove accumulating detritus (while some of this will be caught by mechanical filter media, you can also use a fine-mesh net to strain floating debris from the water column).

If you are keeping stony corals, keep a close eye on the calcium and alkalinity levels (these levels should be checked on a weekly basis). Faster-growing corals (e.g., Acropora spp.) will rapidly deplete available calcium. As a result, you will have to frequently add a calcium supplement. Ideally, calcium levels should be maintained between 350 and 400 parts per million (ppm), while an alkalinity level of 12 dKH should be your target. A declining pH can also be a problem, but it is less likely to be if you practice good husbandry and if you have an aragonite sandbed. Check pH at least once a month and always test at the same time of day.
Click image to enlarge

Anthelia is a durable soft coral that will often grow profusely in a healthy nano reef aquarium.
One piece of equipment that can keep water quality in check is a protein skimmer (some setups come with a skimmer, and for those that don't, you can always add one). However, if you are careful not to overstock and overfeed your aquarium, and you do frequent water changes, a protein skimmer is not essential to success. Occasional use of high-quality carbon, as well as phosphate removers, can also be useful. Replace these as suggested by the manufacturer, as they will eventually release pollutants they have pulled from the water back into the tank.

Bioload: Waste and Aggression
While it may seem intuitive, the nano reefkeeper has to consider the bioload limitations of the aquarium when selecting and adding organisms. Most marine aquarists will tell you that no matter what size their aquarium may be, they are often tempted to add just one more organism to an already burgeoning aquarium community. The problem is that the smaller the aquarium, the more quickly you're going to reach maximum carrying capacity. With a nano reef, you have to also consider the growth potential of your aquarium charges more carefully.

There are several problems that can arise if you end up with too many critters. The most obvious is that too many organisms can lead to a degradation of water quality. A rise in nitrogenous water levels (e.g., ammonia, nitrite) can be lethal to your aquarium inhabitants, and increased dissolved organic compounds and phosphates will result in noxious algae that can overgrow sessile inverts.

Click image to enlarge

When stony corals get too close to one another, they may fight for space by stinging neighbors with stinging tentacles. Make sure you leave plenty of space between coral colonies. Pictured are zoanthids and Ducanopsammia axifuga
A less recognized problem is aggression that may develop not only between fish but also between cnidarians (e.g., anemones, corals). To dissuade their neighbors from getting too close, some stony corals send out stinging tentacles, and certain soft corals exude noxious chemicals. For this reason, be careful when selecting species for the nano reef if you plan on keeping an assortment of cnidarian species. Avoid coral species that are especially "aggressive" in their defense of space (e.g., elegance coral, Catalaphyllia jardinei; hammer coral, Euphyllia ancora; frogspawn coral, Euphyllia divisa; bubble coral, Plerogyra sinuosa) or keep them on their own. If you are interested in keeping aggressive or predatory fish (e.g., frogfishes, scorpionfishes, dottybacks, certain damsels) or destructive crustaceans, create a species aquarium dedicated only to that one animal. While aggressive fish may pick on other fish, they can be kept with certain invertebrates (especially cnidarians), which can make an attractive and interesting display. Likewise, aggressive corals can still be housed with certain fish. If you add a more pugnacious fish or coral into your nano reef, and it causes problems with its neighbors, remove either the culprit or the targets of its aggression. In the case of corals, if you have space, this may simply mean providing a larger buffer space around the tank's sessile inhabitants.

Preventing Disease
Parasite infestations can be a lethal problem in any aquarium system. But parasite densities will increase at an even greater rate in a smaller tank, which means the aquarium's inhabitants can be overwhelmed by these pests even more rapidly. I know many hobbyists hate to hear this, but the best way to prevent disease issues in the nano reef is to quarantine, quarantine, quarantine! Yes, the dreaded Q-word! This does not only mean isolating and observing fish before you add them to your nano-display aquarium; it also means doing the same with corals. To give you an example of the problems that can occur with corals, I had a Merulina coral that I added directly to a nano reef. It turned out that the coral had a few tiny aeolid sea slugs that I did not detect before its introduction. The slugs reproduced, the Merulina was munched on, eventually removed and later perished. Fortunately, the dirty little slugs did not like any of the other corals in the tank, and the problem did not spread, but this is not always the case (ask those who love Montipora corals about losing multiple individuals of various species to predatory slugs).

Because you are dealing with smaller animals, you will not need a very big quarantine tank. A 10-gallon quarantine tank is inexpensive to set up and requires little space. If you detect a parasite or disease in your nano reef, it is imperative to act quickly. I prefer to try and remove the infected fish or inverts; I place them in the hospital tank where they can be treated more effectively. Unfortunately, the most effective treatments for fish parasites will kill invertebrates and the beneficial plant material that grows on live rock (e.g., coralline algae). If you have a single fish that is infected, you can sometimes prevent the spread of the parasite if you remove the fish from the display tank immediately. Placing a UV sterilizer on the nano reef can also aid sick fish in fighting off parasite infections, and cleaner shrimp may pick cysts and certain juvenile parasites off of fish tankmates (don't count on these crustaceans to rid a tank of a severe infestation, though).

Nano-Tank Maintenance Schedule
Daily
Weekly
Monthly
Four to Six Months
Annual
• Replace evaporated water with fresh reverse-osmosis (RO) water
• Conduct partial water change
• Measure pH and salinity
• Clean protein skimmer pumps
• Replace light bulbs
• Feed the animals
• Clean detritus off of mechanical filters
• Clean skimmer reaction tube
• Clean inside pipework
• Replace reverse-osmosis membrane and filters
• Check temperature
• Measure calcium and alkalinity levels (if keeping stony corals)
• Clean off any salt creep
• Clean calcium buildup on equipment
N/A
• Check the condition of the aquarium inhabitants and equipment

• Empty skimmer cup

• Remove algae from the viewing panes if needed
• Check pumps, front glass, pressure gauges
• Frag or thin out corals if needed
• Measure calcium, dKH, magnesium, nitrates and phosphates
• Replace carbon and phosphate removers (or as suggested by the manufacturer)
N/A
N/A

Temperature Control
Maintain water temperature in the appropriate range (between 74 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit). In most cases, keeping the tank warm enough is not a problem - all one needs is a reliable heater. The temperature issue most often confronted is keeping the water cool enough. This is especially true with aquariums that have lights and all other equipment completely enclosed in a plastic shell. While these systems usually have fans installed in the top to help vent some of the heat from the lighting system, they often cannot keep up with heat energy produced by bulbs and submerged pumps.

Things can get even worse if the aquarium is kept in a warm location in the house (e.g., upstairs, an area subjected to direct sunlight or near a heating vent). There are small chillers (1/15 horsepower, etc.) available for nano systems, but most aquarists are not interested in investing in one. The best way to avoid a heat issue is to select an aquarium system that has an open top and that has the light mounted a distance above. It will also help to set up the aquarium in a cooler location in the home.


When it comes to keeping sessile invertebrates in good health, it is important to have the temperature at an acceptable range. This can be a challenge in a nano reef. Pictured are zoanthids.
Rapid Changes
One of the problems with a smaller volume of water is that changes occur more rapidly. Since most coral reef creatures are used to a stable environment, dramatic alterations can be catastrophic. One practice that the successful nano reefkeeper will always engage in is to observe his or her aquarium daily.

One of the best indicators of the aquarium's health is the behavior of the tank's inhabitants. Do the sessile invertebrates look "happy"? For example, are the polyps fully open, or are they contracted? Are they exuding an excessive amount of slime? Are the fish respiring at a "normal" rate, or are they breathing heavily? Are they hiding more than usual, and are they feeding normally? Observing your animals and knowing what a healthy specimen should look like are both essential to warding off problems. This is not only important for the health of the tank - it is also the reason we set the tank up in the first place.

If you detect these changes in behavior, you are likely to have a serious problem that needs immediate attention. Deal with such issues immediately - putting them off for even a few hours can end in catastrophe for your tank. At this point, figure out what the problem is and respond accordingly. First check and make sure that all equipment is plugged in and running correctly. It may seem like a no-brainer, but there have been many occasions in which a pump was accidentally unplugged (e.g., when feeding) or had malfunctioned and was the cause of problem.

Food for Thought
There is a balancing act between feeding our nano-reef charges enough and not feeding them too much. Once again, because we are dealing with a smaller water volume, there is not as much of a chance to prevent sudden changes in water quality as a result of adding too much food. At the same time, I feel too many people starve their marine animals because they don't want to pollute the aquarium water.

There is no magic formula on how much to feed your fish and invertebrates. It is going to be something you have to figure out by way of trial and error. You will need to add a specific amount, and watch and see if it is all consumed in a reasonable time period (say, three minutes).

There are a few things to remember that can reduce the likelihood of over-feeding. It is better to feed smaller amounts more often than one big feast less frequently. Some of the foods available now also have prey items of varying size that will appeal to both fish and invertebrates. It is also a good idea to turn off your pumps when feeding. However, it is essential that you remember to turn them back on after five minutes or so. Here's a trick I use to remember to turn them back on: I keep a large rubber band or bracelet near the aquarium that I put on my wrist when I turn the pumps off. If I forget and walk away, I will quickly notice the rubber band, and it reminds me to turn them back on. After I restart the pumps, I return the band or bracelet to the same spot.

The next thing to do is check the water parameters. Check the temperature, the specific gravity and the ammonia level. Look for all the animals, and make sure that a fish or invert has not died behind a rock and is decomposing in the tank. If the ammonia or nitrite levels are high, use the prepared seawater you have on hand to do a larger water change (e.g., 50 percent) immediately. Continue to perform smaller water changes every day for several days. Then continue testing the water for ammonia and nitrite for a week after the last large water change to make sure these levels remain at zero. In many cases, even if you cannot find the source of the trouble, a water change may be all that is required to fix the problem.

In an emergency situation, one item that can save you money and heartache is a battery-powered air pump (I would have a couple on hand and some fresh batteries in case of a power outage). I hope that these considerations will help the potential nano-reef owner better plan for his or her aquarium. Marine aquarium keeping is an amazing hobby, and nano reefs have made the hobby more affordable to a larger group of people. With careful planning and some good maintenance habits, this is a hobby that can give its practitioners years of entertainment and enlightenment. Happy fish watching! AFI

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Pictures of Nano Ref Saltwater aquaria












































Volcano style nano reef

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Fish at Our Auction Tonight / Research

From: http://www.chicagolivebearer.com/index.php/livebearer-profiles/54-giardinus-metallicus
Giardinus metallicus: The Metallic Livebearer
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Giardinus metallicus Pair

Common Name: Metallic Livebearer, Metallic Giardinus, Cuban Livebearer, Metallic Topminnow
Genus: Girardinus
Species- metallicus = striped

Introduction

Girardinus metallicus is a livebearing poecilid which is found in Cuba and Costa Rica. The common name for this fish is the "Metallic Livebearer" and in the right light these fish appear golden or even have a chrome-like appearance.
Male Girardinus metallicus have a prominent black chin stripe which extends nearly to the tip of the prodigious gonopodium. For a small livebearer, it is a striking fish and visitors to my fish room always seem to notice it. I do get regularly asked about this fish, so it seems like it has a following.

Female Girardinus metallicus are more muted in appearance. The background of the female is tan/gold. Depending on her mood, she may appear speckled.

Distribution
This fish is found in Cuba and Costa Rica in stream and ponds which may be brackish.

Size, Maturity, and Sexual Dimorphism
Size: Males- 1.5 inches, Females 2.5 inches
Maturity: 1.5 inch
Sexual Dimorphism: Males have a black chin and gonopodium.

Care
Girardinus metallicus is easy to keep in a five to ten gallon tank. Furnish the tank with a few plants. Males can be aggressive in their pursuit of females, so providing a few hiding spots for the ladies is a good idea. These fish prefer clean hard water. I performed weekly, 50% water changes. Girardinus metallicus is a fish that should be kept on the warmer side. I suggest 75-80F.

Diet
In the wild, Girardinus metallicus are omnivorous. In the aquarium, they readily accept flake food. I fed veggie flakes and NLS Optimum H20.

Breeding
I obtained a small group of Girardinus metallicus from Mike Matthews of the Circle City Aquarium club in Indianapolis in 2008 and placed them in a five-gallon tank. They still reside in this tank today.

The tank was furnished with a sand bottom and sponge filter and some Java Moss and floating plastic plants. A small heater kept the tank at 78F. Males actively courted females and soon after I found some small fry in the tank. In my experience, the parents will sometimes go after the fry, but with adequate hiding places, quite a few will survive. I've periodically given away both adults and fry since getting these fish and my colony has done very well.

Conclusion
Girardinus metallicus is a beautiful little livebearer that every livebearer hobbyist should try.


Giardinus metallicus Female

Giardinus metallicus Male

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